Notes of cedar are gaining on the fresh black cherry scents in the terrific aromatics of the 2001 Reserve. This medium to full-bodied wine is satin-textured, pure, concentrated, and intense. Expansive, it coats the taster’s palate with red cherries, spices, and superbly ripe tannin. This blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7.5% Cabernet Franc, and 7.5% Petit Verdot should be drunk over the next 15 years. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Reserve is their version of a classic Bordeaux blend; this vintage pencils out as 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, the rest split evenly between Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Sweet black cherry fruit is married seamlessly to layers of different flavored chocolates; long, silky, seamless and seductive. Styled for near-term enjoyment.——P.G.(11/15/2004)—— 94