There are only 670 cases of the 2004 Reserve, a wine composed of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 11% Petit Verdot (a grape which does amazingly well in the Walla Walla and Columbia Valley AVAs). It spent 22 months in a combination of new French barriques and larger French oak. The aromatics feature pain grille, floral elements (especially violets), truffle, spice box, cassis, and black currants. Supple-textured, dense, and full-flavored, the wine has enough structure for up to a decade of cellaring and should drink well through 2040. Tel. (509) 525-1428, www.leonetticellar.com

100% estate grown, this truly exceptional Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend opens with angular, vertical fruit flavors, stacked tightly and detailed with citrus, graphite and chalk. The layered mid-palate mixes grape, berry, cherry and plum, sweet and dense. The oak is applied moderately, not dominating as in past Leonetti reserves. It’s a profound wine with a gorgeous, entrancing structure that is barely beginning its evolution. Flavors emerge in surprising succession, like spring wildflowers that pop up overnight. A remarkable achievement, and quite possibly the best wine ever made by Leonetti.——P.G.(11/1/2007)—— 97