The winery flagship is the 2008 Reserve, a blend 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot, 11% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc aged in barrel, some of it new, for 23 months. Sandalwood, exotic spices, herbs, violets, and assorted black fruits inform the nose of a layered, succulent, plush, bordering on opulent wine that is beautifully balanced and already complex. It will continue its development for at least another 5-6 years and offer a drinking window extending from 2016 to 2028+. I don’t want to be responsible for any family disputes but it appears that Chris Figgins has taken over day-to-day operation of the venerable Leonetti Cellar from his father and winery founder, Gary Figgins. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

3 In comparison with the 2008 Cabernet, this is the bigger wine, less sleek, more chewy. As it opens in the glass, the aromas display incense scents, and there is assertive, blocky, chewy fruit––especially black cherry. The tannins are also bigger, blockier, more substantial than the Cabernet. With hours of breathing time, exotic spices (saffron and more) emerge. ——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 96