Mouth-watering quantities of black raspberries and cassis liqueur are found in the nose of the stunning 2003 Reserve. A huge, immensely deep wine of intense concentration, it coats the palate with waves of dark raspberries and super-ripe black currants whose flavors linger in its exceptionally long finish. This decadent behemoth is magnificent to taste now and will be sumptuous over the next 15+ years. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

100% estate grown. More tannic and dense than the Cabernet, this is roughly three-quarters Cabernet, one-sixth Merlot, but replaces that wine’s Cab Franc and Carmenere with Petit Verdot. The nose shows hints of mushroom, jasmine, blueberries, raspberries and dark chocolate. All in all a big but surprisingly subtle, scented, sensuous wine. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 95