Two clonal experiments that are available commercially include the 2007 Pinot Noir Clone 115. The biggest wine of this quintet, it exhibits abundant amounts of sweet black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with notes of charcoal and smoke. Pure, dense, rich, and full-bodied, with plenty of fruit and intensity, the Clone 115 should drink well for 6-8 years. While Fess Parker’s single vineyard and upper level cuvees are unquestionably serious wines, he also produces some of the finest values that emerge from Santa Barbara. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Here’s another of Fess Parker’s 2007 Pinots that wants time in the cellar. It’s very young now, with a shroud of tannins masking Burgundian flavors of mushrooms, pine, cherries, blackberries, sandalwood, minerals and an enormous array of Asian spices. Best 2011–2015. ——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 93