The 2009 Pinot Noir Clone 115 shows terrific energy and focus in an understated expression of dark red fruit. Here, too, the oak is a bit prominent given the wine’s structure. A clean, well-delineated finish rounds things out. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This line up from Fess Parker is impressive. A number of the higher-end wines are delicious, but I was most struck by the quality of several of the estate’s entry-level offerings. These are some of the very finest values in California. Tel. (800) 841-1104; www.fessparker.com