One of the best run estates of Tuscany, proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti, along with winemaker/oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, has turned out a juicy, impressively concentrated, hedonistic wine. The 1998 Morellino di Scansano, is made primarily from Sangiovese (called Morellino by the locals). It is an excellent, fruit-driven, rich, soft, black cherry and plum-scented and flavored wine with notes of melted tar and roasted nuts. The beautiful fruit purity and lush texture will guarantee considerable popularity. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620