Troplong-Mondot is performing at an exceptional quality level. Readers who have not followed the superb wines emanating from this estate (particularly since 1988) need a wake-up call. At three separate bottle tastings, Troplong-Mondot's 1992 blew away much of the other St.-Emilion competition, and embarrassed many of the premier grand cru classes. The wine boasts a saturated black/purple color, and a huge, sweet, ripe nose of blackcurrant fruit intermingled with scents of toasty new oak, herbs, and licorice. It is amazingly concentrated for the vintage, with superb denseness and ripeness of fruit, moderate tannin, and a long, pure, beautifully proportioned finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and last for 15 years. Once it has more bottle age, it may merit an outstanding score. Kudos to proprietress Christine Fabre-Valette, the dedicated architect behind Troplong-Mondot's resurgence.

Complex aromas of dark chocolate, tobacco and fruit. Very velvety vanilla, grape and chocolate flavors. Medium-to-full body; medium finish. Drinkable now. -