Always charming if somewhat light and insubstantial, the 1979 Domaine de Chevalier is beginning to drop some of its fruit. Although the bouquet still offers considerable attraction in its smoky, cedary, curranty fruit aromas, the acidity has become more noticeable and what tannins are left are more than a match for the shallow fruitiness. While there is still some complexity in the aromatics, the taste fades quickly. This wine requires immediate consumption. Last tasted, 7/93.