A sleeper of the vintage, the deep ruby/purple-hued 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape, a blend of 70% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Counoise, exhibits gorgeously plump, sexy aromas of red and black fruits, licorice, smoke, Provencal herbs, and flowers. Full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuous, it is an endearing, exuberant, flashy Chateauneuf that tastes like the bottled essence of Provence. Drink it now and over the next 10-12 years. In a vintage – 2008 – where few estate made special cuvees from single vineyards or old vines, I was surprised to see all three cuvees from Paul Autard’s 62-acre estate in 2008. However, after tasting them I must say this property appears to have solved the year’s challenges. Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers