An ambitious blend of equal parts Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and barrel-fermented Chardonnay, the 1999 Manna, offers a provocative bouquet of melted butter and honeysuckle. An exotic yet well-delineated, rich, ripe, medium-bodied effort, it is filled with character, fruit, and flavor. There is no noticeable wood, but the barrel-fermented Chardonnay provides structure and spice. It should drink well for 2-4 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620