Tasted at the Chateau Canon vertical, the 1998 Canon needed patience. The aromatics are very tightly knit and initially the 1998 seems a little anonymous. Then, after several minutes is begins to unfurl with a classic Saint Emilion nose: blackberry, leather, a touch of animal fur and a light marine influence. The palate is very well balanced, fresh in the mouth with a fine line of acidity. This is an elegant, understated Canon that is quite different from many of the more opulent Saint Emilions. This is more linear and perhaps old fashioned, a retro-styled Saint Emilion. But there is a great wine here if not quite at the level that I have found in the past. Tasted October 2015.

Made in an elegant, restrained, subtle but interesting style, the dark ruby-colored 1998 Canon offers a sweet nose of crushed stones intertwined with flowers, red and black fruits, and moderate tannin. An attractive, charming, mid-weight effort, it will be at its finest between 2002-2015.

Mushrooms, tobacco and sweet berries on the nose. Full-bodied, with soft and round-textured tannins and lovely fruit. Tannins in the back of the palate will hold this for many years to come, but I would drink it.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 7,500 cases made. -JS