The single-vineyard Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Gli Angeli is made in a concentrated style that sits on the razor’s edge of over ripeness. A big, full- bodied Brunello, it offers tons of jammy fruit and sweet toasted oak along with tobacco, chocolate, leather, spice and underbrush nuances that develop in the glass. In this vintage the wine has a somewhat ponderous, heavy quality that causes it to fall short of the superb 2001. Although the 2003 Vigna Gli Angeli offers outstanding balance, I slightly preferred the regular bottling for its greater vibrancy and freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Various America importers, including Vera Foods, Springfield, NJ; tel. (973) 912-0274; The House of Burgundy/Slocum NY, Port Chester, NY; tel. (914) 937-6330; Wine WareHouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700