The 2004 Omrah Shiraz is more deeply colored and more perfumed than the Hazard Hill. It exhibits aromas of spice box, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry. This leads to a structured wine with excellent depth of flavor and a long, pure finish. It can be enjoyed now but will evolve for several years. Also tasted: 2006 Omrah Unoaked Chardonnay (84), 2006 Hazard Hill Rose (79), 2005 Plantagenet “Lioness” Shiraz-Viognier (84), 2006 Plantagenet “Off the Rack” Chenin Blanc (83)The original owner of Plantagenet, Tony Smith, was the first to plant vines in the cool climate Great Southern region in Western Australia in 1968, with the Plantagenet winery established in Mount Barker in 1975. There are three tiers of wine; Hazard Hill is the entry level made primarily from purchased fruit sourced outside of the Great Southern region; Omrah, sourced from estate fruit and growers in neighboring regions, and Plantagenet made from estate fruit.Importer: Robert Whale Selections, Washington, DC; www.plantagenetwines.com

Seems a bit overdone, with blackberry flavors that head toward jam and cooked fruit rather than fresh berries. Graham cracker and chocolate notes add complexity to this reasonably rich wine that just needs a little more vitality to bring it to the next level of quality.——J.C.(4/1/2007)—— 86