The 2005 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette blanc (100% Marsanne that is barrel-fermented and aged in new oak) offers terrific fruit along with hints of white peach, marzipan, and hazelnut in a full-bodied, opulent, dense style, but is deceptively buttressed by considerable acidity, and not showing any oak whatsoever. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000