The 2005 Reserva is quite a jump from the Crianza showing a lot more stuffing in a classic profile of leather, tea leaves, paprika and iron aromas and a polished palate with resolved tannins and good balance. This is easy to drink and is in line with the house style. Drink 2014-2018. Martinez Lacuesta is one of the classical names from Haro, which was created in 1895 and now, 118 years later, is a one-million-bottle operation still run by the same family. Some stray bottles from (extremely) old vintages can be found in shops or restaurants and are well worth drinking (I’m thinking of a superb 1928 here). On top of their current (mostly) classical wines that are quite consistent if not terribly exciting, they also produce delicious vermouth, which after all is nothing but aromatized wine. Various American importers: Serendipity Wines (Texas), Dionysis Wines (Washington), Arborways Imports (Mass.) and Spanish Wine Collection (New York).

Vanilla, tobacco, redcurrant, prunes and raspberry. Elegant, opulent and spicy. Long, complex, good potential. Minty finish.