This is less ripe than many 2003 Gigondas, but in a good way, trading thick fudge-like flavors for more spice and freshness. Raspberry and pepper scents lead the way, followed by some slightly herbal notes. There’s a sinewy quality to the structure and a briary quality to the fruit, capped off by a long, spice-driven finish. Drink now–2014. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88