Here is another little-known grape that makes up the greater genetic patrimony of Northeast Italy. A pure expression of the Marzemino grape, the 2013 Colli di Conegliano Refrontolo Stèfen 1624 sees up to 70 days of appassimento to concentrate the flavors, sugars and alcohol of the wine. Only 2,665 bottles were made. This is an inky dark red wine that coats the glass with its consistent substance and does the same on the palate. The bouquet offers tones of black fruit, bitter baking chocolate, tobacco and mesquite smoke. The grapes are fermented on the skins before going into barrique for two years and then in botte for an additional 12 months. Stèfan is the ancient surname of the De Stefani family, and the Marzemino grape has been cultivated in the Refrontolo area for seven centuries. It was said to be Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart's favorite wine, and in his opera Don Giovanni he wrote: "Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzimino!"