Tight aromas bury the fruit at first, showing some reductive scents of plastic and rubber. Let it breathe and you will uncover wild blueberry aromas and flavors, wrapped in a thin layer of bark and citrusy acid. In the back of the mouth, as the wine finishes, you taste nut skin, which puts a clean definition to the edge. Graceful and subtle, as usual with Seven Hills wines. ——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 89