Maculan would probably not appreciate being labeled a dessert wine specialist, but there are few producers in Italy who can match his pace in this category. The 2001 Torcolato, golden yellow in color, penetrating in aroma with notes of sweet peach and apricot fruit, cloves, cinnamon, and honey, is ample and viscous, but fresh and vibrant as well, and should drink well until 2010-2012. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620