The 2008 Torcolato is heady and sensual in its white truffles, dried flowers, honey, wild herbs. Myriad aromas and flavors continue to emerge from the glass as this complex, kaleidoscopic wine shows off the full breadth of its personality. The 2008 boasts gorgeous inner perfume and spectacular overall balance. I imagine it will still be magical in two decades’ time, especially if purchased in full bottles (as opposed to 375s). Torcolato is 100% botrytised Vespaiola aged in French oak barrels, 1/3 new. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028. This is another strong set of wines from Fausto Maculan, one of the leading lights in Veneto. My only real criticism is that the top reds are being released far too early for wines of such pedigree. These wines rank among the very best being made anywhere, but it is not surprising they remain relatively unknown considering they arrive in the marketplace too young to be fully appreciated. Sadly, there is no new release of the flagship Acininobili, but there are plenty of other great choices in this strong line-up.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620