The 2008 Mencia. It was raised in stainless steel and bottled without filtration. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals an enticing perfume of spicy black fruits. Concentrated and rich on the palate, it is dense and packed with spicy, savory fruit. It is likely to evolve for another 1-2 years and develop additional complexity although it can be enjoyed now. It is a sensational value. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; www.grapesofspain.com

Dark as night, with prune and rubber on the nose along with murk and compost. It’s extracted to the max, leaving a rubbery feel to go with supercharged boysenberry flavors. Gritty and forceful on the finish, and pushing tons of runaway flavor. Not for those who like restrained red wines.——M.S.(6/1/2010)—— 86