This bright, medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine is produced from 60 year old vines. It displays blueberries, and black and purple fruits dusted with minerals, cracked black pepper, and spices, as well as a medium-to-full-bodied, juicy, broad, and masculine personality. This foursquare and oily-textured wine has iron, steel, earth, and blackberry flavors, and a firm finish. It is a structured and tannic (again, not problematic) Nuits that will require cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2008. I am happy to report that progress at Domaine Henri Gouges continues. Run by Pierre and Christian Gouges, respectively responsible for the viticulture and wine-making, the estate is charging forward to reclaim its spot as one of Nuits most highly respected domaines. As with every estate in Burgundy - (most were reluctant to admit it) - the 1996 yields were much higher than normal, averaging 45 hectoliters/hectare (as opposed to 35 h/h in 1995 and 29.7 h/h in 1997). However, the wines are rich, dense, and have lovely ripe fruit characteristics. The Gouges' threw out their filters in 1991, and only fine if they feel the tannins require softening. The wines I tasted were still on their lees (except for the white which had been bottled in September, 1997), and were going to be racked in February and then bottled a month later (earlier than normal). Christian Gouges felt as though they would not require fining. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.