Bright red currant and cherry on the nose of the Gouges 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers translate into a sassy palate freshness strongly marked by berry skin and pit. At once palpably extract-rich yet at the same time both silken-textured and buoyant, this epitomizes the brightness of its vintage, and even if it isn’t – for now, at least – enormously complex, it’s elegant and compellingly drinkable. I would expect it to remain fresh for a decade, and hopefully take on some nuance in the process. Gregory Gouges admits that he and his family, in 2008, picked a tough year for completing their conversion to organic viticulture, but he notes that the winds of late September rather radically desiccated most botrytized or otherwise imperfect berries and that this played directly into the forte of vibratory sorting tables on which such berries were simply shaken-away. Yields here were only in the 30-35 hectoliter per hectare range. Harvest began already September 30 and fruit came in between 12-12.5% potential alcohol. Chaptalization was minimal, and then only on a few lots in an effort to prolong fermentation. Malos were late and long, but nevertheless finished by summer’s end; and bottling was early by estate norms, with one exception completed between December and February. New facilities enable the Gouges to achieve better temperature-control during fermentations and to avoid pumping. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

A firmly structured wine, perfumed with delicious fresh fruit, supported by densely solid tannins. Fresh cherry acidity cuts right through the texture. It has weight certainly, while the freshness suggests this could be drinkable within 4–5 years. ——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 91