The dense ruby-colored 1998 Barolo Bussia displays a heady, intoxicating perfume of maple syrup mixed with kirsch liqueur, cigar smoke, dried herbs, and cedar. Voluptuously-textured, beautifully concentrated, pure, rich, and long (the finish lasts for 35 seconds), it is soft enough to be drunk, but I suspect the tannin will soon re-emerge and the wine will shut down. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Ready to drink. Starts off a little earthy, but then turns to dried flowers and ripe fruit on the nose. Full and chewy, yet fruity and enticing. Very solid.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 1,600 cases made, 250 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add