Lovely intimations of diverse, hard to define mineral notes – along with faint smokiness and ripe apricot – already grace the nose of Colin's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers, which then comes onto an almost palpably chalky yet lush palate brimming with ripe apricot and pineapple, leading to a bright, refreshing, buoyant, complexly mineral finish. I really like the invigoration lent by the sense of chew and tactile mineral matter here, especially in the context of vivacity and lift. I'm betting this wine from a mixture of young and very old vines will be worth following for 4-6 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524