The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is one of the high points of the range, unfurling in the glass with a lovely bouquet of lemon oil, green apples and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, with good concentration and a bright line of mouthwatering acidity. Vibrant and pure, it is well worth seeking out.