Blacker-colored and more broodingly backward, the 2006 Cornas Billes Noires exhibits a touch of toasty new oak in its full, layered, concentrated, stunningly long personality. This is a superb quasi-modern style of Cornas that should be ready to drink in 2-3 years, and last for over a decade. Proprietor Matthieu Barret is another member of Cornas’ younger generation of producers who have embraced the use of smaller barrels as well as more sanitary vinification techniques. The results are wines imbued with good purity, sweeter tannins, appellation typicity, and more approachable styles that retain 15 or more years of aging potential. Importer: JEFF WELBURN SELECTIONS, Van Nuys, CA; tel. 818.780.4446

This crackles with life, as vibrant pastis, plum sauce, violet and graphite notes course from start to finish, all kept aloft by tangy briar, mineral and garrigue notes. The long, vivid finish lets both the fruit and minerality sing. Drink now through 2017. 215 cases made.??–JM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Cornas Select to Add

Smoky, spicy blackberry nose, with tapenade and bacon. Palate fruit a bit muted at this staage, but loads of potential.