The 2003 Montecucco Sangiovese is from a new appellation just across the Orcia river, Montalcino’s southern border, and an area of significant potential. The fragrant nose of red currants and Mediterranean brush, the balanced structure with its filigree tannins, and the fine continuity are all attributes of a classy wine. Only a slight loss of momentum on the close, perfectly natural in a wine from very young vines, keeps the score from going higher. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411