The 1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles has an austere nose, gradually revealing minerals, chalk, and sun-baked gravel scents after considerable coaxing (it had been bottled three weeks prior to my visit). On the palate, this medium-to-full-bodied wine is exceptionally expressive, bursting forth with multiple layers of minerals and sweet citrus fruits. Its concentration, precision, definition, and balance are brilliant. Lastly, its length is mind-boggling. Drink it between 2004 and 2012+. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.