Aromatically demure, the 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles (white) displays a supple, easygoing character. Harmonious, soft, and medium-bodied, this velvety-textured wine reveals minerals dusted with vanilla in its expressive character. Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

As Anne-Claude Leflaive describes it, this wine is all about the complexity of the vineyard’s soil. There is minerality and finesse from the chalk, which gives a structure. And at the same time the ripe fruit seems opulent, with vanilla and spice flavors adding something exotic. Age this wine for at least 5 years. ——R.V.(12/1/2006)—— 96