The 2004 Reserva Old Vines is a library wine revisited this issue for a status check. It is sensual and lovely, aging gracefully. It has thinned a bit and it is not as much of a “wow” wine as it was on release, but on the other hand, it shows far better balance and gives some hints of character to come with further aging. Still fresh and lively, it should support further aging beautifully. A little creamy but quite sexy on opening, this displays an elegant mid-palate and an appealing demeanor that will make most gravitate to it. The tannins are soft, the wine is harmonious and everything is in perfect balance. It will surely be one of the first bottles emptied at the table for its pure charm alone. That’s not all, though. I was really pleased to see it absorb the oak with an hour of air and begin to show some character and complexity, too. If it has a certain Spanish feel to it, it also has some individuality. I’m not quite sure I am as impressed with this today as I was originally, but it is still awfully impressive and completely hard to resist, especially at its original $35 price point. I suspect now that it has a pretty good chance of going 20 years without any real problem, but let’s remain conservative as we go along. It is drinking so well now, I suspect few will have much left in 2024 anyway. Drink now-2020. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 931-1725