The 2007 RESERVA OLD VINES is a lovely Old Vines, comparable in quality to the 2003 and 2004, which makes it one of the best values in the Douro, even with the recent price hike. As is typical of many 2007s, it combines elegance and depth, showing good balance, yet richness and fine flavor. It is richer and fuller bodied than the Maria Teresa, closer to Vinha da Ponte, if you are comparing. Granting that stylistic preferences of individual consumers may differ, this is certainly the smartest buy in this lineup by a long margin, which it usually is every year. It is less than a third of the price of the Maria Teresa, for instance and many may actually prefer it. This will be approachable young, but it will show better in a couple of years and will age well. It drank nicely the next day. Drink now-2023. Crasto, on every short list for “best of Portugal,” had an awfully nice vintage this year. The Old Vines Reserva is one of the best intersections of price and quality in this report, and the Vinha da Ponte is a strong “wine of the vintage” candidate. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.