The 2009 Reserva “Old Vines” is a Douro stalwart that has crept up in price over the last several years, but in fairness – it was cheaper in the USA than in Portugal for the most part and it competes well with Crasto’s higher priced entrants in most years. So, too, this year. Once again, I look at this and it seems equal or superior to more expensive wines, particularly including Crasto’s. So, it’s hard to complain. Powerful, focused and intense, this is ripe and delicious, but it has the structure to support the fruit and oak and some pretty good acidity. If you like them sexy, sweet and rich, this qualifies. If you like them elegant in the mid-palate and structured, it does that, too. It did calm down with air, even if it is burlier than usual, certainly a very different wine than the more compact, elegant, but utterly charming 2008 that I loved. While not as big on the “wow” factor as some of the so-called upper level wines, it’s probably Crasto’s best and best balanced upper level wine this year, not completely immune to impressions of alcohol, but handling it very well and combining a lot of virtues successfully. This is not really in a great place now – two to three years in the cellar could help a lot. Drink 2014-2023. Crasto is one of the Douro’s most prominent estates, typically one of its leaders. With a beautiful Quinta and view – easier to get to by boat, more interesting to get to by car – it justly attracts a lot of attention. The releases this year, 2009s, have plenty to offer, but I was not entirely convinced by all of the upper level wines. Perhaps time will tell another story as they calm down and settle down. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

Old vines in this case means an average age of 70 years, from a vineyard that is a mix of different varieties. The result is impressive, very floral with sweet black fruit, licorice and the ripest of tannins. Age this wine for 5–6 years. ——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 94