One of America’s finest values in Syrah is Fess Parker’s 2002 Syrah from Santa Barbara. A bouquet of smoky barbecue spices, chocolate, plums, black cherries, and cassis jumps from the glass of this plump, fleshy, succulent effort. It is meant to be consumed during its first 3-4 years of life. Tel. (805) 688-1545

Two of our reviewers found this wine overly tannic and rough on the finish, while the other praised its supple tannins and creamy texture. All agreed on the ample blackberry fruit and heavyhanded oak, which make the wine somewhat obvious. We just couldn’t agree on where this wine is headed in the future.——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 84