Pàtrimo was not made in 2008 because that was the year Riccardo Cotarella left Feudi di San Gregorio. The winery needed time to decide the stylistic direction of the wine following the departure of the celebrated winemaker. The 2009 Pàtrimo is indeed a beautiful wine that brings the focus back to Merlot (and its ripeness). The oak spice moves into a supporting role. The estate's incoming enologist Pierpaolo Sirch shifts the focus to phenolic ripeness and balance, and shorter maceration times before fermentation. The wine opens to soft and tender notes of cherry and chocolate that are characteristic of Merlot. You also get savory tones of tobacco and cured meat that add weight and substance. Meanwhile, the wine never feels heavy. A spot of acidity and polished tannins contribute to its overall weightlessness and buoyancy. This wine has enough dark fruit to ensure further evolution over the next decade or more.