The 2000 The Twentyeight Road Mourvedre is a spectacular offering. Somehow, d'Arenberg manages to tame Mourvedre's tendency to taste too much like animal fur, tree bark, and sauteed mushrooms. The opaque purple-colored Twentyeight Road cuvee boasts a gorgeous bouquet of blackberry and cherry fruit intertwined with earth, compost, leather, and spice box. Subtle notions of French oak add complexity. Sadly, there are only 600 cases of this marvelous old-vine Mourvedre (vines planted in 1918). If the famed Bandol estate Chateau Pradeaux made an Australian Mourvedre, it might taste like this. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552