The 2006 The Twenty-eight Road Mourvedre was sourced predominantly from a vineyard plated in 1918. Exceptionally aromatic with fragrances of earth, forest, mushroom, iodine, and floral notes, this terroir-driven wine offers plenty of meaty blue fruit on the palate. Dense, intense, structured, and long, it demands 4-6 years of cellaring and will offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2026. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on the Rhone varieties, is wide ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom. The winery produces a bevy of value priced reds and whites that were reviewed in Issue 178. They should not be overlooked. At the higher end of the portfolio there is one white wine on which to report.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.darenberg.com.au

For a wine that's 100% Mourvedre, this has pretty tame tannins, the suppleness and creamy texture helping to balance some of the crisp acids and tart red berry notes. Varietal cola and tree bark aromas and flavors add complexity to this structured but approachable red that should drink well for at least the next 5–8 years.——J.C.(4/2/2010)—— 89