D’Arenberg’s “icon” wines lead off with the 2005 The Twenty-eight Road Mourvedre. It is deep crimson-colored with a very expressive, spicy perfume of damp earth, graphite, meat, smoke, blueberry and blackberry. On the palate it is fat, fleshy, and rustically styled with excellent layering of fruit, sweet tannins, and a long finish. Give it 3-5 years to blossom and drink it through 2020. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on Rhone varietals, is wide-ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.darenberg.com.au; Also tasted: 2005 The Stump Jump Shiraz (82), 2005 The Custodian Grenache (84), 2005 Sticks and Stones Tempranillo, Grenache, Souzao (84)

Ripe, round and generous, the flavors centering on raspberry and dark chocolate, with hints of roasted meat sneaking in as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2009. 100 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / McLaren Vale Select to Add