The 2009 Morellino di Scansano Riserva bursts from the glass with dark red cherries, plums, spices, leather, licorice and tobacco. Exuberance and opulence are supported nicely by firm yet well balanced tannins. Although the 2009 is delicious today, it also appears to have the structure to age well for a number of years. Only a slight hint of dryness on the finish detracts from the wine’s overall sense of harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2014. Le Pupille is one of the most fascinating wineries in Italy. Every few years seems to bring a revitalization. The newest development is the arrival of consulting oenologist Luca D’Attoma. It will be interesting to see where Le Pupille goes in the coming years. I think it is safe to say D’Attoma is the hottest winemaker in Tuscany right now. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620