The 1996 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon is a structured wine, revealing the vintage's high acidity, but with less fat, fruit, and hedonistic appeal. Nevertheless, it should age atypically well for a Condrieu - 4-5 years. Importer: An Alain Corcia Selection (telephone number in France, 011 33 3 80 24 93 72); various American importers