The flagship Condrieu of the Vernay estate is their four-acre parcel of Coteaux du Vernon. This wine comes from 40-year old vines, and is aged for 15-18 months in oak barrels, of which 10% are new. This offering is sensational, having achieved 14% alcohol naturally. This cuvee, represented by 500 cases, is one of the few Condrieus that is not put through full malolactic fermentation because of the ultra ripeness at which the grapes are picked. The spectacular 1998 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon exhibits richness and intensity. It is a thrilling wine, but in four years, expect it to merit a score in the mid-seventies. It reveals notes of liquid minerals, intermixed with honeysuckle, orange marmalade, and tangerines. There is little evidence of wood, which gives this big, forceful, concentrated wine some definition. On the palate, it is loaded with fruit and opulence, with enough acidity for balance, and a heady, intoxicating finish. This is a spectacular, hedonistic, exotic, over the top white wine that will drink well for 2-3 years. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert-Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400