Clean, sweet raw meatiness and a saline mineral cast on a palate of almost creamy polish render the Croix 2006 Beaune Greves striking, while vanilla- and caramel-tinged black fruits lend sweet allure. This is one of those sedate, soothing 2006s that is irresistible already, and likely to remain that way for at least 6-8 years. Furthermore, there is the promise of further mineral fascination. In late 2004, David Croix – winemaker of Camille-Giroud (about whose wines, consult my separate report in this issue as well as in issue 170) – was able with outside investors to purchase the long-somnolent but well-endowed Domaine Duchet. Veteran Burgundy lovers may recall the widespread availability of Duchet wines – often from mature vintages – that where shipped stateside during the 1980s. The wines of his second vintage as Domaine des Croix – not all of which I had chance to taste, and none before their summer, 2008 bottling – speak to both his talents and the estate's quality of acreage and vines. What's more, they promise to offer rare examples of excellent value in Burgundy crus. And Croix's Corton Charlemagne – on which I'll publish notes shortly – is quite exciting. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70