Very good is the flinty, richly fruity, floral and mineral-dominated 2000 Pinot Bianco. Light to medium-bodied and elegant, it is fun to drink, and isn't that the primary purpose of wine? This famous family owns 50 acres of well-placed vineyards in the northeast corner of Italy known as Trentino-Alto Adige. The wine is tank-fermented and aged, bottled early, and has some CO2 added for freshness and spritz. It will not age, but for drinking in their first 1-2 years of life, it is fruity, crisp, and appealing. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620