The 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, which was tasted from an ex-cellar magnum, has an expressive bouquet that is perhaps just a little more advanced than I was anticipating. Yet it is undeniably elegant and poised with a lovely scent of oyster shell that suffuses the red berry fruit, then later, a hint of black truffle. The palate is surfeit with vibrant red berry fruit that has a pastille-like purity, subtle blood orange and dried orange zest notes lining what feels like a powerful finish that fans out with confidence. Is this a Volnay Champans intent upon giving its all in the flush of youth? Whatever, it is a gorgeous Volnay to drink now and over the next decade.

A refined red that mixes elegance and density, with raspberry, floral, licorice and mineral flavors. There's a core of concentrated fruit, all harmonious with the structure and texture. Best from 2012 through 2024. 150 cases imported. -BS