The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was tasted against the 2011, the latter much more expressive and approachable. Speaking to Guillaume d'Angerville himself, seated next to me, I remarked that I thought the 2009 was closing down and he agreed. It has lost its initial exuberance - a bouquet that appears to have closed in on itself. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, stoic and a tad introverted, moody even, slightly grainy in texture with just a touch of piquancy on the finish. I am sure this will ultimately come good, but this is a surly Volnay for the patient. Those without it ought to head for the 2007 or 2011 vintages.

A fleshy style, this rich wine leans toward black fruit—cherry and berry—and licorice flavors. Smooth and sleek, with a mineral undercurrent and a vibrant structure. Very harmonious. Best from 2015 through 2030. 210 cases imported. –BS