The Pousse d’Or 2008 Pommard Jarollieres evinces some of the same smoky machine oil-like aromas as its sibling Clos d’Audignac, here allied to roasted game and cooked ripe blackberry. An abundance of tannin remains relatively fine-grained, and will in any case have been exacerbated by the wine’s having just been bottled. Stony, peaty, gamy, and bitter-edged black fruit notes dominate in a rather somber finish, though that, too, is surely a bit dampened-down by bottling and there is a fundamental underlying fruity and carnal richness here that bodes well for a decade or more of cellaring. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93