One of two terrific efforts from the Domaine de Chevalier, the 1992 exhibits a tight but promising nose of rich, melony, waxy, honeyed fruit complemented nicely by smoky new oak. Well-structured and concentrated, with layers of fruit and an inner-core of mineral, steely fruit, this formidably endowed, backward wine will need 7-12 years to open; it should last 25 or more years. Impressive!

Better than a year ago. Full-throttled, toasty, barrel-fermented style, fresh and elegant, boasting terrific mineral and honey flavors. Polished yet powerful. Drink or hold. -