The 1995 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc must have been an austere wine in its youth, but at age 25, it's just beginning to unwind enough to make for very interesting drinking. Offering up aromas of lemon pith, beeswax, pine needles and subtle hints of vanilla pod, it's medium-bodied, deep and incisive, with a satiny attack; it's concentrated, precise and bone-dry. Patience has been rewarded, and I'm looking forward to my remaining bottles.

Big and chunky for DC, with plenty of apple, mango and vanilla. Full-bodied, with lots of fruit and wood. Needs time to come around. Best after 1999. -JS