Few producers excel with Dogliani like Marziano Abbona, and his 2006 Dogliani Papa Celso is another winner. A saturated ruby, this powerful, seamless wine flows from the glass with waves of ripe dark fruit that caress the palate with notable beauty. The wine’s richness is supported by a firm tannic structure that insures a minimum of several years of very fine drinking. This is a terrific effort from Abbona. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Dogliani is both the name of a town and a newly created DOCG, which can be used for wines previously labeled Dolcetto di Dogliani that meet specific requirements, the most important of which regard yields and aging.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700